Big Day in the Tetons

So why did we not figure out until the last day that there is free wifi at the luxurious laundromat and shower building at the Colter Bay campground? I'm thrilled, since it means that I can upload the latest blog post and get some more pictures online.

Today was our best day yet in the Tetons, and I feel like we really got to appreciate the awe-inspiring hikes in a family-friendly way. I got an early start, heading out for a 31 mile bike ride up Signal Mountain, about 812' of climbing spread over just under 3.5 miles. This relatively easy climb offered up the best road surface I've ever encountered on a hill climb, and because I finished the climb before 8 am, there was no traffic to contend with. I was really supercharged and soooo wanted to get the Strava KOM for the climb, but I was happy to settle for third.

We got a late start on the hike, but now that the boys both have their fancy hiking poles, they were very motivated to get in one last Teton trail. We retraced our steps over a part of the String Lake trail, and then headed up Paintbrush Canyon, a climb that was a real challenge to poor Leo toward the turnaround point. Still, we managed to climb 1,000', which was a huge accomplishment for the boys. We also a rugged waterfall and some amazing views of the valley below. We saved our picnic lunch for the turnaround point, and shared the scenic spot with about fifteen other hikers, many of whom were camping on the mountain. This idea certainly has the boys intrigued, and I think it won't be long before we'll be doing something more challenging ourselves.

After the 7 mile hike, we visited the top of Signal Mountain (in the van this time) in search of a signal, and finally had a chance to talk to my mom, who was very happy to hear from the whole family. We followed that with a visit to Jackson Lodge, a grand, elegant building with an undiluted old-time charm. We plied the boys with ice cream, and are finally prepared to say our goodbyes to the Tetons and embrace the Yellowstone phase of our great adventure.

Tomorrow morning, if weather cooperates, I'll bike ahead to the Yellowstone border and meet the family by the entrance gate. We're looking forward to the impressive geological features, but also to the motel that follows in five nights.

Regaining Our Footing

Gail writes:
We've had a discontented couple of days here at Points West. I think that being together all the time is wearing on us a bit. After the epic grumpiness of Saturday and Sunday, we regained our footing a bit yesterday and seem to be on a better trajectory...sometimes. There's still some brotherly bickering that's raring up, and occasional displays of attitude. I guess that's inevitable when we're not more than a few feet apart for days at a time.

Yesterday we had a nice, mostly flat hike around String Lake, followed by a swim in the shadows of the tall mountains. Then we had a campfire and some singing, which seemed to make all of us feel a bit more kindly toward each other. I woke up in the night to the sound of coyotes howling in the distance.

Today we headed out to Jenny Lake, where we took the boat shuttle across the lake and hiked into Cascade Canyon. The first part of that hike, up to Inspiration Point, was like hiking on the thruway--super busy and crowded, though with amazing views. Most people stop at Inspiration Point but we continued on into the canyon and were rewarded by a much less crowded, easier hike through beautiful country, with the peaks looming right above us. The boys hiked with high spirits and good cheer, which was a relief after the considerable whining of days past.

Now we're catching up on the online world here in Jackson. Tomorrow is our last day in the Tetons, so we'll find another great hike, then start the process of packing up so we can go to Yellowstone on Thursday. We've really enjoyed our time at Grand Teton, and the rangers we've talked to seem thrilled that we're staying so long. One told us that 75% of their visitors just drive through and rarely get out of their cars, except to snap pictures at the viewpoints. It's a shame, because the camping is great, there are spectacular hiking trails, and the scenery is unbeatable. You really can't take a bad picture here!

Our Day of Discontent...and Grand Tetons!

Every long family vacation must allow for at least three days of discontent. Yesterday we used up at least two of those days between 6:30 a.m. and 4 p.m.! It all started when I woke a certain tween up from a solid comfy motel room slumber in order to snag a campsite at the Colter Bay campground on Jackson Lake in the Grand Teton National Park. Our early-waking boy has been a reliable household alarm clock for years, but it seems that we are witnessing the beginning of some changes to his circadian rhythms.

The next incident was when we exited the motel and walked to the van. I was temporarily blinded by the brilliant sun and managed to walk right into a tree limb at forehead height. Ouch! That left quite a goose egg and put me in a bit of a funk.

Finally I failed my family by finding a less-than-stellar grocery store for breakfast items and sub-standard coffee. When we finally hit the road and head northeast toward Wyoming and along the Idaho border, we took turns being very grumpy, and this sour mood hung like a dark cloud over us all until a while after we set up camp. The mood did lighten considerably when we stopped for groceries and a picnic in Jackson Hole. The quality and range of the offerings were not far off of Wegmans standards, quite a change from the last time we were here in the mid-90s. They even had things like pre-packaged Portobello mushrooms with basil, finely chopped tomato and feta cheese, all ready for the grill and a wide range of fake meat products.

It always takes a little while to feel settled in at a new campsite, so instead of immediately putting up the tent, we took in the breathtaking views of Colter Bay and the rugged Tetons in the background. Then we did the ritual tour of the visitor center and gift shop. We were most impressed by the quality of fresh produce and range of products available in the camp grocery store, including our favorite Greek yogurt, which made for a great lunchtime treat today.

Family peace was restored when we went to the evening program, sang familiar campfire songs, and learned about the history and the biology of the bison. We continue to be most impressed by the quality of the programming. Every park ranger that I’ve met has been so patient and kind, and they deserve kudos for figuring out how to manage the endless questions and occasional inappropriate interruptions from the junior ranger crowd.

We woke up on Sunday to a beautiful sky, and I worked on the omelet and home fries breakfast while Gail went for her first run in a little while. After piling on the calories, I went for a bike ride to the Yellowstone border and back. This was my fastest ride of the vacation, and aside from a 600’ climb spread over 3 miles, it was great time trial material—I wish I had aero bars for the flat sections, but in spite of that, I averaged 21.4 mph over the 37 mile ride with almost 2200’ of total climbing. The return trip was most rewarding, with views of the Tetons and a tailwind, but surprisingly I didn’t see many other cyclists.

This afternoon we went on a three-hour ranger-led easy hike. Ranger Danielle was terrific, and she taught us a great deal about the trees, plant life, animals and the entire web of life in this portion of the park. The bear claw markings on the lodge pole pines were most impressive, and I really hope that we have any close calls with bears, based on the size of the incisions. I’ll definitely be buying a canister of bear spray, since the Tetons, Yellowstone and Glacier are all prominent bear territory.

When it started raining, I raced ahead, since once again I forgot to close all of the tent windows. When will I learn? Fortunately nothing got too wet, and the skies cleared again after a two-hour light shower. A burrito dinner hit the spot, and now we look forward to another evening program. Tomorrow it’s off to Jenny lake and some more adventurous hiking that will take us closer to the big mountains, particularly Rockchuck Peak, which is just over 11,000’ high, weather permitting. The current plan is for me to bike ahead to the trailhead with a bit of a head start. Hopefully we’ll also find a 3G hotspot so that I can upload this blog entry as well!